First before reading this book I wrote please see this article to help understand
http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crops ... n_form.pdf
You can have 20-20-20 lets focus here at the N of NPK . Look on the back of fertilome there is no chelated secondaries. Look at the nitrogens used in Fertilome. THey break down in water within 48 hours. You have various amonicioul nitrates, nitrogen nitrates etc.. there is various nitrogens fertilizer companies use. By all state laws what is on the containers must be listed. We are no different in fact our Colorado Agro license is under process so for once we will have to list our ingredient concentrations we've held secret until this point.
Jacks, Fertilome, etc.. all comprise of different nitrogen compounds. For example take our flower power package, put it in a clear plastic bottle leave the cap open .. put some FPP in the bottle so it turns blue. Leave it there for a week / two weeks/ three weeks it will stay blue. Do this with fertilome, or jacks, or a number of other "Lawn fertilizers" that use short dissipation nitrates. You will see in under 48 hours those 20-20-20 formulas turn from blue to clear, leaving sediment at the bottom meaning they don't last long and this simple experiment will show you a clear difference in our formula and theirs.
We found through experimentation the 20-20-20 with added amonoical nitrates and some nitrogens with PH binders is an excellent fertilizer for soil and hydroponics. So we actually source through a huge fertilizer company we pay rights too; the same chemical company likely jacks and fertilome use In fact my connection is a board member with VPG farms and setup my account with the company they get their chemicals from.
20-20-20 is a very popular and widely available NPK ratio, but our N in the NPK uses various nitrogens specific to cannabis. Example pour Jacks 20-20-20 in over dose on a seedling it will die. Due to high amonium nitrate percentile in their NPK ratios. We are doing tests with our formula of 20-20-20 to create a single one all be all nutrient no longer needing the bloom tub. I cannot tell you why due to proprietary tests working with Dr Spencer, but just know were modifying our 20-20-20 with whats best for cannabis growing. With fertilome or jacks you must add micronutrients, calcium and magnesium and they're for soil only, they will kill plants dead in hydroponics because they break down over night.
Our Colorado Agro license requires us to lists all concentrations so soon to follow state agro laws we will be publishing our nutrient with new list of ingredients. Which means Colorado Agro inspectors are then permitted at any time to come to our facility and take samples of our nutrients.
As a small business were not cooking up nitrates in our facility this would require FBI and other agencies to list us because of bomb making capabilities. Instead we contract with a chemical fertilizer producing company and tell them exactly what we want in our formula. Our current formula is 17-15-13 but this mixture is costly on state licensing because I have to get it analyzed by a local lab each time we get our product bulk manufactured to ensure we pass state tests each time.
This is why you can grow with the old fertilome nutrient and it did excellent until they changed the formula. Our 9-58-8 is ratiod like theirs but that too is soon changing to 10-32-10 if we cannot perfect a single all purpose ratio for both veg and bloom to make growing even easier. Example say for grass you want good grass you can buy bulk 20-20-20 from grow more a huge chemical fertilizer company ... put it on cannabis .. they don't produce heavy yields, but take grow more 20-20-20 mix it with fertilome 20-20-20 and jacks 20-20-20 your 75% of the way to our mixture EXCEPT none of those will work in hydroponics and they all state their formula is for soil only. Hydro is important if the solution does well in hydro then you can expect excellence in soil.
So like many fertilizer companies the NPK ratio's mean very very little other than a high NPK like 20-20-20 means you need very little for your plants so 1 pound of it goes a long way. If your 20-20-20 was comprised of ONLY Amonium nitrate for nitrogen , phosphorous, and volcanic ashe for potash you would have a 20-20-20 thats great for per say grass only.. yet would murder cannabis in hydroponics and also require multiple feedings in soil.
Say you went with Urea Nitrogen at 20% for the N in the NPK now you got a soft on seedlings nitrogen that can take quite a dose without killing them, but use it in hydro your nitrogen skyrockets the PH to a very high alkalidity because they plant will eat it, and crap out neutral ions no benefit to controlling PH. Yet Amonium nitrate will have the plant pooping out a positive Hydrogen molecules (I believe a mole of hydrogen) .. stuff gets complex fast. Mix all the nitrogens together in the N of the NPK you got control problems out the ass unless you ratio the individual nitrogens correctly which is part of our magic, the other part is PH stability for 3 weeks of hydroponics control stability. But now you need a bloom formula too, and believe it or not our 20-20-20 formula as it is today can be used from veg to bloom no need to even use the bloom formula. Our bloom formula mimics fertilomes except with secondaries and micro-nutes added. The bloom formula does one thing.. the high phos triggers the plants production of the bloom cycle. So in all honesty you can use the bloom nutrients just once switching the plant into bloom (triggers hormones etc..) then switch right back to 20-20-20 or the 17-15-13 as it currently is and get monsterous blooms due to our nitrogen composition , phosphorous and choice of potash source.
Now to trick it all up you need a water soluble formulas e.g Anhydrous based crystals and you need them stable so they don't break down over night in hydroponics like Fertilome, Jacks, Grow more and a few others will do since they lack stability for staying a long term water solute.
So 20-20-20 is in simple any nitrogen for the N at 20% ( there are various nitrogens you can use which one depends on the application and plant species needs) , 20% phosphorous, and 20% potash (volcanic ashe is great but we get our potash from an Hawaii source) specifically for cannabis uptake, and our secondaries are soluble AND stable. So to re-iterate this you can have the following formulas but their all 20-20-20
1. 20-20-20 20% urea nitrogen - 20% phos - 20% potash
2. 20-20-20 20% Amonium nitrate - 20% phos - 20% potash
3. 20-20-20 20% nitrogen nitrate - 20% phos - 20% potash
4. 20-20-20 15% Amonium Nitrate , UREA 2.5% , 2.5% Nitrogen Nitrate , 20% phos - 20% Vulcanic ashe (The ratio here is where we focus our Flower Power Package)
Please see this for example http://www.greenhouse.cornell.edu/crop ... n_form.pdf
When plants eat certain nitrogens they poop out a bi-product one might put it in a very simple analogy. This biproduct has effects on PH in your soil, and hydroponics. Nitrate in general is negatively charged and will cause severe PH rise in water and even soil , Amonium in balance can be used to keep your pH stable as the plants eat it, and release a cation (postive charged biproduct) which is acidic in form and causes PH to lower (normally you fight PH rising so you burn though allot of PH down) , and lastly Urea nitrogens are a neutral charged nitrogen .. this is why Urea is soft on seedlings. Now If I dive any further I give the haters of the nukeheads community ammo to change their own formula around so I'll end it here.
So as you can see you can have 20-20-20 of this or that you can have 20-20-20 that has water soluble nitrogens like jacks or fertilomes, or even grow more, and theres quite a few 20-20-20 since its popular for grass / yard fertilizers. But water soluble means you put it in your miracle grow sprayer, spray the crap in soluble form and it dries up once it hits the earth and stabilizes. IT DOES NOT MEAN IT WILL STAY STABLE IN HYDROPONICS where the fertilizer must be long term stable. Remember Oxygen causes rusts right ? Oxygen attacks ferrite(iron) and makes it break down. Iron is an essential micro-nutrient to plants especially in hydroponics. We also adjust for cases of hydroponics and soil use with tap water where chlorines have reactions to certain elements in such fertilizers .. water has oxygen in it right aka H2O ?? So now oxygen in your tank is having reactions to your iron and other micro-nutes !!! Now hydroponics growers run "DEAD SYSTEMS" meaning no microbes, they run UV lights that kills algae, brown slime and most all eukaryotes or prokaryotes ( organisms with and without a nuclei) ... but UV also reacts with trace elements breaking them down. How to combat this and keep your nutrient stable ? So while we work with Colorado's agro department we did insist on our work and findings be kept secret as much as possible. That being said what we will soon be required to list on our formula will to those who know no better look similiar in "RATIO" to other fertilizers available, but the binders, stabilizers, and nitrogens used will only be listed as much as required for license purposes. The rest will be filed with Colorado and we will provide an MSDS data sheet to also meet requirements.
So I hope this brings some light on those who were wondering, but yes, we source our chemicals from companies because thats costs effective.
Ohh and you can buy 50lb bags of Azo's water soluble trace minerals these days for about 50$ so making your own fertilizer at home is possible, but the second you do such your state has authority to inspect your home due to agro mandates ... I learned this shortly after a state agent visited me with federal warnings to get our stuff licensed or else !!!! So as you can see we are going about things in the appropriate manner. I think I will buy some fertilome, stick an air-stone in a clear glass jar ... put water and fertilome in the jar, and then do the same thing with Jacks, grow more, and our fertilizer then do a 48 hour time lapse video to show how they each break down and turn clear, while ours stays blue and stable !
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